Our original itinerary, which had been diligently crafted over the previous two years, was to be segment #8-the last stop-as nine days in Cambodia. But barely a month before liftoff, Cathay Pacific Airlines threw us a major curve ball and cancelled our flight to Phnom Penh, Cambodia. So, we dusted off the map of Southeast Asia and based on the few remaining award seats available on American Airlines and it’s partners, we picked Thailand as the new final stop. Here’s how it went:
From Male, Maldives via Columba, Sri Lanka via Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia … we touched down at Bangkok, Thailand after about 27 hours. The business class lounges along the way helped, as did their showering facilities so we were good to go at touchdown.
Bangkok is a chaotic, congested and loud metropolis but it is also exciting with all the different smells, the melting pot of people and cultures, and the world class restaurants and hotels. We arranged for the folks at our hotel, The Lancaster, to pick us up at the airport which is always a relief after a long flight to not have to deal with taxi negotiations, much less where to even find them. Once at the hotel, we were thrilled to hear that they were out of the room class we had reserved so they upgraded us to a massive suite, probably the biggest one of the trip and with an incredible view of the Bangkok skyline. Swweeeeet!!! After hitting the two-for-one happy hour at the overpriced hotel bar, we found a delicious Thai version of a meat ‘n three so we scarfed up a plateful, and called it a wrap of day #56, July 28, 2022.
Yummy sashimi and sushi appetizer
Squid appetizer.. bon appetite!
Our plan for day #57 is to catch a short one-hour flight from the Bangkok domestic airport called DMK to Chiang Mai, Thailand, about 420 miles north and near the borders of Laos and Myanmar. Our piece-of-crap taxi from The Lancaster hotel to DMK Airport had some serious transmission issues and literally lurched its’ way for the whole ten miles, but we made it on time and even had an excellent noddle bowl at this beautiful airport.

Andrea slurping a big bowl of noodles
We were told that this was the “old” Bangkok airport that now handles only domestic flights but clearly, it was as nice as most any we’d been through on this entire trip (Nairobi could take some notes from this place on how to improve their sorry excuse for an airport!).
Chiang Mai is a city about the size of Augusta, Georgia and was founded in the 12th century (this seems new after some of the places thousands of years old that we saw earlier in the trip). The town center still retains most of the original old wall and mote surrounding the city. Once again, we asked the folks at our hotel, the Akyra Manor, to pick us up. So, Mr. Wat and his shiny SUV were waiting outside baggage claim with a sign that said “Mr. William”…guess that means us.
This hotel was one of the places where we scored one of those “Covid deals” about a year ago; an eye-popping discount on the biggest penthouse in the building when they were desperate for customers. It WAS big, and it WAS the penthouse, And, the motif was very Thai\Oriental with everything either grey, black or chrome. BUT…it was about the most un-functional place in which we’ve stayed. We spent the entire time trying to find light switches and what controlled what, finding hidden safes, drawers, irons, and getting basic questions answered from seemingly bewildered employees, getting the cappuccino machine to work, calling the front desk to get sugar that wasn’t left by housekeeping and then trying to explain what a sugar packet was, etc., etc., etc. Beyond that, we found the city hard to navigate and congested, and the restaurants were maybe good … maybe bad. We expected a bit more charm. Nevertheless, Thailand being the very inexpensive country that it is, we took full advantage of outstanding massages for both of us ($30), pedicures for both ($25, and Bill’s very first!) and haircuts (and a color job for Andrea) for $40.

Our first night at the hotel bar

Andrea getting a color

We rented bikes for the day

Couples massage room
Pedicures.. a first for Bill and those ladies worked hard!
Andrea did some quick laundry.. she had to take her shoes off before entering the laundromat. Even our hotel staff take their shoes off before entering our room.
Being that Tuk-Tuks are a major form of transportation in Thailand and are basically ridiculous looking three-wheel carts with a bench in the back and powered by a 2-cycle engine belching smoke, we got hooked up with a tiny little lady, Mrs. Maew, or “Cat” for short who Tuk Tuked us around all afternoon for $2, including a trip to the grocery store. We tipped her $8 because we felt guilty for such an absurdly small fee. Turned out she was also a tour guide with a car so she offered to take us to the famous temple on the mountain the next day (a four-hour) trip, for $20. Sold! The Buddhist temple was stunning and was actually a whole complex of temples, Buddhas and monuments, all overlooking Chiang Mai below. Mrs. Maew had a pretty decent air-conditioned car.
We went to the city market. It was on a blocked off road that was 2 miles long. Incredible array of goods. We found the fried bugs booth to be the most interesting and disgusting!
City market with temple and sunset in the background.
Line of Tuk Tuk’s to take us anywhere we desire!
The oldest temple in Chaing Mai, Wat Chang Mai
We went to Cats favorite silk shop and were convinced to buy something from this guy

Avocado toast for bfast.. awesome!

This was the hallway to our hotel room, draped in heavy maroon curtains. Very odd.
Appetizer for dinner.. basically hard boiled (raw in the center) eggs, fried pork skins, green beans, two kinds of dipping sauces and some mystery meat. Bill ate it all while Andrea gagged.
Us and Cat!
Next up the Monks
Wat Pha Lat temple
The construction of Wat Pha Lat is not known, but the temple name appeared during the time of King Kue Na when he rode his elephant to bring the relics of the Buddha from Sukhothai to be enshrined at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep and
stopped at Pha Lat for a rest. The stupa is a Bagan-style round stupa, surrounded by a circumambulatory or Pradakshina path. It has a niche enshrining the Buddha image on the south side and stucco lions and deities at the corners of the base.The Hall of Buddha in a state of ruin, only its base remains. The Buddha images inside the hall have been restoredto their original condition.

Monks
Next stop: On to the the most famous temple in ChaingMai the Doi Suthrep Temple. Read about it here.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wat_Phra_That_Doi_Suthep
There are 305 steps to get to the top. We took the tram up and Andrea walked back down. Th steps are bordered by two huge wood carved dragons. Fascinating walk down.

From the bottom

From the top
White elephant legend
According to legend, a monk named Sumanathera from the Sukhothai Kingdom had a dream. In this vision he was told to go to Pang Cha and look for a relic. Sumanathera ventured to Pang Cha and found a bone. Many claim it was Gautama Buddha's shoulder bone. The relic displayed magical powers: it glowed, it was able to vanish, it could move and replicate itself. Sumanathera took the relic to King Dhammaraja, who ruled Sukhothai. The eager Dhammaraja made offerings and hosted a ceremony when Sumanathera arrived. However, the relic displayed no abnormal characteristics, and the king, doubtful of the relic's authenticity, told Sumanathera to keep it.
King Nu Naone of Lan Na heard of the relic and bade the monk to bring it to him. In 1368, with Dharmmaraja's permission, Sumanathera took the relic to what is now Lamphun, in northern Thailand. Once there, the relic broke into two pieces. The smaller piece was enshrined at Wat Suan Dok. The other piece was placed by the king on the back of a white elephant which was released into the jungle. The elephant is said to have climbed up Doi Suthep, at that time called Doi Aoy Chang (Sugar Elephant Mountain), stopped, trumpeted three times, then dropped dead. This was interpreted as an omen. King Nu Naone immediately ordered the construction of a temple at the site.[1]
The name of the Temple (Wat Phra That Doi Suthep) actually explains what the temple has. Phra entails of an honorific Buddha image, and That means a relic.[2] Combining the two tells that there is a relic of Buddha's in the sanctity of the Wat, and in this case it's half of Buddha's shoulder bone. The location of the shoulder bone relic is to be found in the rounded portion of the Chedi right above the octagonal redented section and below the ringed section.

The temple spire is gold plated

Writing good wishes on the scribe

Intricate carvings
Why the sad face? Andrea just got nailed by a feisty bee!
From the scenic overlook
Just for something different, on Tuesday, August 2, Day #61, we made the return trip to Bangkok by train, a ten hour ride through the interior of the country. Long, but a fascinating look at the way these Thai people live and work. As expected, a few folks are millionaires but most are simple farmers and pheasants living in tin huts and centered around a massive gold-plated Buddhist temple. Being a mild climate year around, everything is green and lush: palms, banana trees and rice patties being worked by little women with coolie-hats. 
Cooler packed for the train ride

Getting ready to board

Ride the train he said, it will be very scenic he said! ZZZZZ

Lunch was served, again Bill ate it, Andrea didn’t. What’s a smiling fish anyways?
There really was beautiful scenery.
Masks were mandatory unless you were eating or drinking.. we were constantly drinking.. 😀
We had previously arranged for our Bangkok hotel, The Akyra Thonglor to meet us at the Bang-Sue Junction station but alas, they were nowhere to be found. Plus, the station was a rather nasty, dimly lit place that two confused foreigners with luggage would rather not be loitering around. Fortunately, Andrea’s phone was able to call the hotel and after much yelling and gnashing of teeth, the manager acknowledged that her “colleague” had screwed up and if we would just hire a taxi, they would make it right when we arrived. Sure enough, there was an army of Thai ladies with a fistful of Baht money for the taxi guy, bowing and apologizing when we rolled up, and offering upgrades and a free taxi to the airport upon checkout. Our speculation is that her “colleague” is now her ex-colleague.
Our “last” day, #63 turned out not to be so! Lounging by the pool, sipping a cold one and smoking a fine stogie, we got the call from Japan Airlines, our escape from Bangkok in 15 hours, that due to recent changes in Japanese government rules due to Covid-19, we would not be able to layover in Tokyo Narita and thus, our ticket was cancelled. What the hell!!! After a frantic call to American Airlines, the original issuer of the ticket, we were able to get a rescheduled ticket one day later. Bottom line, we land in Savannah about ten hours later on the same day, without a lot of lost time but with a ton of lost tears and the first “I just wanna get home” from one of the two travelers on this trip.
I love the reflection of the flower in Bill’s glasses.
This rainbow appeared after our disturbing phone call from Japan Air.. we knew then that all would be ok!

Pool at night!

Room service, first time this trip!
Thus, our new “last” day, #64, will again be spent by the pool and reflecting on the fact that amazingly, we pulled off this worldwide trip in the midst of a pandemic without one single glitch to the planned schedule until the very last day, and within an hour, we were able to sort it all out!
And so, unless Japan pulls another stunt on us, it will be wheels-up at 8:05am, August 5, Day #65 to start our 28-hour journey home. By popular request, we’ll post one final blog…”by the numbers”…to conclude this amazing trip: ATW64…now ATW65!